So ... I'm 33 ...

... for some reason, turning 33 is hitting me like a ton of bricks.  I realize it's not a major milestone (i.e. 21 or 50 or 18), and I also realize I'm still younger by several months/years than most of my friends (ha - had to throw that in there - love you guys!) ... but ...

THIS IS THE OLDEST I'VE EVER BEEN.

I think my issue is that I thought I'd be further along by 33 ... husband, kids, white picket fence ... and I'm not.  So that kinda sucks.

BUT!!! (oh yes, there's a positive ...)

1. I have the best family and friends a girl could ask for.
2. I live in Vietnam which is freaking amazing.
3. I have the sweetest dog in the entire world.
4. I have an amazing job that lets me see the world (and that I absolutely love - most days).

All in all, I don't have much (if anything) to complain about.  And 32 was a shit-tay year, so ... bring it on 33!!!!

How the day went down ...

• I woke up at 5:30 a.m. because I was so excited it was my birthday.  Yup - I acted like a 3 year old.  Awesome.

• I worked a full day, and that actually kinda sucked!  People were friendly and wishing me happy birthday and what not, but a. I was in the office on my birthday - and that just blows, and b. one of my co-workers had on his douche helmet and gave me an earful of douchey attitude.  Not cool dude, not cool.

• FINALLY, I made it home and welcomed friends over for a pre-dinner drink before we went to Sumo Sushi (all you can eat sushi and BBQ) for dinner.  Awesome night with awesome friends - felt very special and very lucky.

Roses from my landlord!

Nathalie, me and David @ dinner

BEEF

Daraca, Damien and LaMont @ Sumo Sushi

Something on this table disagreed with me completely ...
Sumo sushi is dead to me.

And then ...

• ... something in the sushi disagreed with me - TERRIBLY.  So I spent the next 24 hours racing to and from the bathroom.  No need for details here, but - let's just say it's wasn't the best ending to the day.
  
  (You're probably thinking ... hmmmm - what did you expect????  All you can eat sushi + BBQ in Vietnam sounds shady as hell.  Thanks Captain Obvious.  I agree wholeheartedly that it was not the smartest decision on my part.  You'd think I'd have learned by 33.)

All in all, a pretty inauspicious start to 33.  

But instead of focusing on the negative, I'll end this on a positive ... 

1. I got to celebrate my birthday for 36 hours because of the time difference between here and the States.  That kinda rocks.

2. I'm heading to Nepal for 10 days in late March.  That's just straight up badass.

3. I'm finalizing my trip home during the summer - definitely something to look forward to.

4. My Irish friends are having me over for lunch on Sunday to celebrate St. Patty's Day in true Irish style.  No idea exactly what that means, but you know it's going to be amazing.  

Thanks to all of you for the birthday wishes, cards, emails, Skype, texts, etc.  I felt the love reaching 1/2-way around the world!!  

Catching Up

I'm confident your days have been a little less bright without my weekly updates.  To turn your frowns upside down, here goes ...

It's the start of week 10 for me - almost 2.5 months in Hanoi.  Crazy how time flies, and yet - sometimes it feels longer.  Good longer - productive longer - but ... longer.  Definitely still suffering from the occasional bout of homesickness, but it's getting a bit better as I meet more people and keep trying new things.

So let's see ... the past two weeks ...

Let's start by highlighting how I've been working my ASS off.  Not even kidding.  1 week in Jakarta working 12-14 hour days, followed by last week working 10-12 hour days.  Let's just say - it was misery.  I'm back down to 9-10 hour days ... I can live with that.

I realize that's not the scintillating stuff you're here to read, so how about ...

I've made friends!  Like, real, honest to god friends!  I met Nathalie (from California), Lamonte (from Georgia) and their daughter Monae through David and Julienne and have hung out with them several times.  They're really great people - totally relaxed and welcoming.  Through Nathalie and Lamonte, I met Dharaka and Damien ... another couple, from Northern England (crazy accents - brilliant as the Brits would say).

Yes, both are couples, but ... as I was explaining to Dugs last night ... it takes one set of friends to introduce you to another and then they bring their friends and then it's all one big friendly group of friends (that's an excessive use of the word friends ... friendsfriendsfriendsfriendsfriends).  Plus, Damien's a doctor for International SOS - so maybe he has hot single doctor friends?  Fingers crossed!

Oh my god, I found the Vietnamese version of Costco.  And it was epic.  Was introduced to Metro by Nathalie and Lamonte who swore that it's THE place to buy things in bulk - including fresh fruits and vegetables, meat, dairy, etc.  We went Saturday afternoon and I promptly plopped down $200 for 4 lbs of ground beef, some noodles, fruit, speakers for my laptop, fresh fruit, veggies, a rechargeable fan (evidently power outages are common here in the summer, so a rechargeable fan is a MUST), some toiletries, yadda yadda.  Was so pumped to get home and enjoy the amazingness that I heard was Metro food products ...

... and was sorely disappointed last night when I realized the ground beef had to have been at least 50% fat - the fan is noisy as all get out - and the fruit is mushy.

Oh well - still a good place to stock up on toilet paper.  And you never really can have enough toilet paper.

All in all, it's been a productive few weeks.  Still missing family and friends and still HOPING someone (or all of you) takes me up on my open door policy, but until then .... catch ya on the flip side!

And of course - some pics!!!

Guess he just really needed a smoke ... out on the ledge ...
of his three-story office building.  Huh.

I found the keymaster.

Make shift barber shop on my street.

Jakarta.

My building in Hanoi

Lobby of hotel in Jakarta

(you're likely noticing that I don't have any pics of the actual
city of Jakarta ... right - because I only saw my hotel, and the streets
to and from my office from a taxi.  RRRRRiiiiiiiggggggghhhhhhhtttttt.)

Sunset over the lake.

My creation!

Found at a bar on Friday night.  Amazing!  I like #7!

Metro (aka Costco)

Sunday in the park ... 

No one needs this much garlic, but for $1.25 a bag, you'd totally buy it too.

Happiest of Happy News!

Being away from home is particularly hard when there's happy news to share ... and in this instance - I couldn't be more ECSTATIC to share this news with my family and friends!!!

My cousin, also known as Savannah, Savvy, Banana, Bananz, Bug, and a myriad of other nicknames will soon be called Mrs. Savannah Marshall Paul.  That's right - her boyfriend of 3 years has proposed!!!

Having spent some time with the couple, and seeing Savannah's happiness through the years, and, more recently, about her engagement on Skype - I honestly couldn't be more thrilled for them both, happy that they found each other ... and happier still for my family - happy to have found a new son-in-law, brother-in-law, nephew-in-law, and (most important, if I do say so myself), cousin-in law!

Welcome to the family, Zach - and cheers to the future Mr. and Mrs. Zach and Savannah Paul!!

I love you both!

The "Glamour" of International Travel

Because I'm ridiculously self-absorbed and want everyone to know the minutia of my daily life, you likely already know I'm in Jakarta, Indonesia.  Arrived late last night (Saturday), depart next Saturday.

I'm always amazed by people who comment on my Facebook posts, claiming my "luckiness" to get to travel all the time.

And don't get my wrong ... I AM lucky.  I feel like international travel has made me a better version of myself and has provided experiences I wouldn't have otherwise had.  I've seen things, experienced things, eaten exotic things, and have done things that few get to experience.  Trust me - I am not biting the hand that feeds me, but I feel there are some myths about international travel that must be dispelled.

Travel itself (particularly on quick trips like this one) is anything but glamorous - and I'm going to use this forum to prove that point.

1. In some cases, you're on a plane for more than 24 hours.  That's right.  24 hours - with a few layovers sprinkled in for fun.  Think about your "normal" day.  Now take all of that away, and imagine yourself sitting in coach for 24 hours.  I rest my case.

2. You're working 12-14 hours (if not more) a day.  While on STTA (short-term technical assistance), you're likely there for a VERY specific reason.  For example - on this trip - I'm here to support a budget realignment of our project that is currently facing lots of not-so-fun issues.  I will start my day at 6 a.m., as usual, and likely not finish until 10 p.m. - with breaks only taken to get dressed for the day, get to/from the office, to eat (but usually a working lunch/dinner), and to take a personal moment here and there to - you know - use the bathroom.  By the time you get back to your hotel room, you're playing catch up for hours on all of the "normal" work things that you weren't able to get done while focusing on activity X for the entire working day.

3. You don't get to sightsee.  OK, I'll admit it - on some of my trips that extend longer than 1 week and include a weekend, I've gotten to do some pretty amazing things.  But - now that I'm in Asia, and my trips will likely become hops, skips and jumps for 1 week at a time (or less) - those bonus sightseeing trips will end.  Which leads to #4 ... 

4. There's a little bit of guilt.  Take today, for example ... I'm in Jakarta, spending my Sunday in a hotel room working vs. getting out and seeing the sights.  Why you ask?  Because I have a sh*t ton to do to prepare for this coming week.  The guilt comes from not taking advantage of this amazing opportunity to get out and do the touristy things that I know others would give their eye teeth to see - I always feel like I should be out and doing something, instead of just saying ... "you know what?  It's a Sunday.  If you were at home on a Sunday, you wouldn't be beating yourself up for catching up and relaxing before the busy work week starts right back up again tomorrow morning."

5. Dieting is hard.  When you're not responsible for cooking your own food, it's really easy for a diet to fly out the window.  Not a luxury I can really afford (let's be honest).

6. It's kinda lonely.  Particularly if you're on an STTA.  Anyone in the international development world can tell you - in most cases, you're traveling independently - meaning anything you do outside of working hours is with you, yourself, and ... you.  Right.  Lots of benefits from that too (see previous post Single Rider), but can get lonely at times. Not to mention missing your family, friends and dog.  

OK, even as I've gone back to read this, I'm thinking "jesus - you sound like a total ungrateful ass, crying into your 5 star hotel rooms 3,000-threadcount pillows."  I could easily discount everything I've just written above by saying any of the following:

• "But - once you're off the 24 hour flight, you're in a totally different universe - how cool is that????" ... or ... 

• "But now that you live in Asia, you can go and sightsee as much as you'd like - it's all in your backyard!" ... or ... 

• "But you don't have to cook for yourself, and how cool is that???  Someone making all these exotic dishes for you and then cleaning up after you?  Yes please!" ... or ...

• "So what if you're working your a*s off - sometimes it's cool to just be in a different place!" ... or ...

• "Quit your bitching - you're being PAID to travel for a living.  That's badass."

Alright - I'm lucky.  I admit it.  I've just "blogged" myself out of the whole point of this post.

How about this - the traveling part itself is anything but glamorous, but it's pretty freaking cool to be in an entirely different country and fill up your passport with exotic stamps on a regular basis.  Sometimes (and I stress sometimes intentionally as I can count these times on - well, 2 fingers) an STTA can totally suck and be ridiculously frustrating, but there's always little hints of amazingness that make it all worthwhile.  Honestly, before I was posted in Vietnam, I would look for STTA's just to break up the monotony of office work - because STTA's really do make such a difference to both you and the project/country/team/individual that you're supporting.

So keeping this all in mind ...

Please go and book your tickets immediately, suffer through the 24 hour flight in coach sitting behind a dude that doesn't believe in deodorant (true story), deal with the jet lag and potential traveler's diarrhea you may get as a result of all the new things you're trying ... and come and explore all that Vietnam has to offer with me!  Pretend I'm your STTA.  Sure - there's parts that aren't glamorous - but international travel IS life changing ... any takers????

Single Rider

Ever go to an amusement park as part of a group of 3 or 5?  Where someone ultimately has to be the 'single rider' on each of the rides?

I have.  

Sean Maroney knew I was uncomfortable being the single rider and would frequently call out "single rider!" as we were waiting for a roller coaster/log flume/insert amusement park ride here.

What a nice friend he was.

I digress ... 

Traveling alone is a lot like being the single rider.  Empowering - "hey - I can do this on my own!!  I don't need anyone to get through this meal/activity/entire trip!"  And also a little bit sad - "Wow - I hope no one realizes that my Kindle's been my date for the past 5 meals."

Having traveled frequently for work, I've become used to being the 'single rider.'  The plus side?  You can meet AWESOME like-minded people who are also traveling alone and looking to make friends.  It really does give you a sense of accomplishment - I feel quite strongly that being able to be alone with one's thoughts for an extended period of time is KEY in really understanding who you are/how you tick/why you do the things you do.  

My self-awareness is borderline obnoxious.

So while I'd MUCH prefer to travel with family, friends, or work colleagues, I'm not going to miss out on amazing experiences because no one is available to join me (you know, cause that whole "we're not in the same country thing" applies). :)

Case in point ... my current mini-vacation to Non Nuoc Beach (aka China Beach, aka R&R destination for US soldiers during the Vietnam War).  I'd say this is a great example of a trip I'm sooooo glad to have taken, but ... would be better if family/friends were with me.  

I arrived yesterday morning at 9 a.m., and was on the beach by 9:30.  The beach itself is SPECTACULAR - white sandy beaches, chaise lounges set up underneath thatched umbrellas, blue-green ocean - it might just become the Vietnamese equivalent of Topsail for me.

The resort itself ... well - it leaves a little to be desired.  It's 100% clean and safe - the two most important parts - but ... let's just say - I leave my flip flops on when walking on the kinda nasty carpeting in my room.  The shower head points UP and water floods the bathroom with each shower - so that's interesting.  OH - and the toilet is in the same stall with the shower - see below.

That's right - that's the toilet INSIDE the shower.  Huh.

The resort!  Sandy Beach Non Nuoc Resort.  A bargain at $75/night.

World's largest kind size bed.  I woke up laying diagonally this morning.

BUT - the air conditioner works - the staff are extremely friendly - I'm steps away from the beach - there's NO motorbike traffic to block out the sound of the ocean waves ... really - what in the world am I complaining about?

So for all of the awkwardness that being a "single rider" can sometimes bring (and I stress, sometimes) - I wouldn't miss this experience for the world.

And who knows - maybe there are other "single riders" to be met :)

Panoramic view of Non Nuoc Beach

Blue skies!!  Ocean!!  Sun!!  YAY!!

Oh Cabana Boy .... 

And of course - a live Dragon dance in the lobby of my hotel
this morning to celebrate the New Year.

Turns out ...

• Roosters don't only roost in the morning.  They roost all day.  And multiple roosters roosting at the same time is VERY loud.

• Bats (that's right - bats) enjoy spending their early evenings along the lake, tormenting would-be walkers/exercisers.

• Size 5 is the average shoe size in Vietnam.  Riiiiigggggghhhhhhhttttttttt.

• Geckos are good to have in one's home - they keep other creepy crawlies at bay.  Oh - and they're a dime a dozen in Hanoi.

• Mosquitoes look different in Vietnam than they do in the U.S., and they pack one helluva punch.  

• HBO Asia is about 6 months behind HBO in the U.S.  

• The Vietnamese word for beer is "bia".

• Vietnamese kids go to school on Saturday mornings.  Starting at 7:30 a.m.  And they sing.  And ring bells.  And my bedroom backs up to a school.  

Zen and the art of ... motorbikes?

Less horsepower than a motorcycle ... a little more hardcore than the rubberband and gear system that is a scooter ... somewhere in the middle lies the motorbike - the preferred method of transportation in Hanoi.

Since my first trip to Hanoi, I've developed a healthy respect (fear?) for the motorbike.  I heard a statistic that there are 8 million people in Hanoi and 7 million motorbikes - and I believe it wholeheartedly.  It's chaos at rush hour - but there's an order to the chaos ... like - everyone realizes it's going to be a crappy commute with a gajillion motorbikes on the road at the same time - and they just power through.

Here are some examples:

Homeboy has a TREE on his bike.  A tree.  

Kids get in on the action too!!
BTW - does anyone else notice that the little girl's wearing a plastic bag
over her face?  I'm all for keeping the bugs out, but don't people fear suffocation???
Oh - and dig the SARS mask on the mom.  Commonplace in these parts.

Having been here for 5 weeks, I realized my two options for transport are walking (great exercise, but not feasible to walk to work every day, particularly in the heat of the summer) and taxiing (slower than motorbikes, and you're at the whim of the driver - who doesn't always know where you're going).  While both are viable options, being able to quickly get where I need to go without having to hail and pay for a taxi (oh, that's the other thing - can get costly) is key.

And so enters the motorbike.

David and his wife, Julienne, recommended VIPbikes.org, the rental group they go through for their bikes.  I made an appointment for Saturday morning ... took a taxi by 9 a.m. ... signed on the dotted line - and voila!  I had a motorbike ... 

My new ride!

I like the blue racing stripes -- adds a little something extra, dontcha think??

... that I didn't know how to drive.

Thank GOD for the guys at VIPbikes.org ... one of the technicians drove my bike back to my house (with me on the back - first time I've ever even been on a motorbike), and spent 2 hours with me, teaching me how to use the bike - accelerate, brake, take turns, put the kickstand down (more complicated than it sounds!), etc.  He was a WONDERFUL teacher, and at the end of the lesson, I was cruising down Quang Ba on my own with the wind in my hair and bugs flying into my teeth.

Let's just say ... I have a long way to go.  The highest speed I've clocked so far is about 37 kilometers per hour (about 23 mph), and that was fast enough for me.  I go extremely slowly in congested areas, and am more likely to stop completely and let a car pass than try to move forward when they're barreling down the road.  I'm limiting myself to the lake road in my neighborhood - relatively little traffic - but am hoping to branch out a little bit each day until I have the full swing of things.

Happy motoring!!

Dig the helmet :)
Clearly, I'm jazzed!