Happiest of Happy News!

Being away from home is particularly hard when there's happy news to share ... and in this instance - I couldn't be more ECSTATIC to share this news with my family and friends!!!

My cousin, also known as Savannah, Savvy, Banana, Bananz, Bug, and a myriad of other nicknames will soon be called Mrs. Savannah Marshall Paul.  That's right - her boyfriend of 3 years has proposed!!!

Having spent some time with the couple, and seeing Savannah's happiness through the years, and, more recently, about her engagement on Skype - I honestly couldn't be more thrilled for them both, happy that they found each other ... and happier still for my family - happy to have found a new son-in-law, brother-in-law, nephew-in-law, and (most important, if I do say so myself), cousin-in law!

Welcome to the family, Zach - and cheers to the future Mr. and Mrs. Zach and Savannah Paul!!

I love you both!

The "Glamour" of International Travel

Because I'm ridiculously self-absorbed and want everyone to know the minutia of my daily life, you likely already know I'm in Jakarta, Indonesia.  Arrived late last night (Saturday), depart next Saturday.

I'm always amazed by people who comment on my Facebook posts, claiming my "luckiness" to get to travel all the time.

And don't get my wrong ... I AM lucky.  I feel like international travel has made me a better version of myself and has provided experiences I wouldn't have otherwise had.  I've seen things, experienced things, eaten exotic things, and have done things that few get to experience.  Trust me - I am not biting the hand that feeds me, but I feel there are some myths about international travel that must be dispelled.

Travel itself (particularly on quick trips like this one) is anything but glamorous - and I'm going to use this forum to prove that point.

1. In some cases, you're on a plane for more than 24 hours.  That's right.  24 hours - with a few layovers sprinkled in for fun.  Think about your "normal" day.  Now take all of that away, and imagine yourself sitting in coach for 24 hours.  I rest my case.

2. You're working 12-14 hours (if not more) a day.  While on STTA (short-term technical assistance), you're likely there for a VERY specific reason.  For example - on this trip - I'm here to support a budget realignment of our project that is currently facing lots of not-so-fun issues.  I will start my day at 6 a.m., as usual, and likely not finish until 10 p.m. - with breaks only taken to get dressed for the day, get to/from the office, to eat (but usually a working lunch/dinner), and to take a personal moment here and there to - you know - use the bathroom.  By the time you get back to your hotel room, you're playing catch up for hours on all of the "normal" work things that you weren't able to get done while focusing on activity X for the entire working day.

3. You don't get to sightsee.  OK, I'll admit it - on some of my trips that extend longer than 1 week and include a weekend, I've gotten to do some pretty amazing things.  But - now that I'm in Asia, and my trips will likely become hops, skips and jumps for 1 week at a time (or less) - those bonus sightseeing trips will end.  Which leads to #4 ... 

4. There's a little bit of guilt.  Take today, for example ... I'm in Jakarta, spending my Sunday in a hotel room working vs. getting out and seeing the sights.  Why you ask?  Because I have a sh*t ton to do to prepare for this coming week.  The guilt comes from not taking advantage of this amazing opportunity to get out and do the touristy things that I know others would give their eye teeth to see - I always feel like I should be out and doing something, instead of just saying ... "you know what?  It's a Sunday.  If you were at home on a Sunday, you wouldn't be beating yourself up for catching up and relaxing before the busy work week starts right back up again tomorrow morning."

5. Dieting is hard.  When you're not responsible for cooking your own food, it's really easy for a diet to fly out the window.  Not a luxury I can really afford (let's be honest).

6. It's kinda lonely.  Particularly if you're on an STTA.  Anyone in the international development world can tell you - in most cases, you're traveling independently - meaning anything you do outside of working hours is with you, yourself, and ... you.  Right.  Lots of benefits from that too (see previous post Single Rider), but can get lonely at times. Not to mention missing your family, friends and dog.  

OK, even as I've gone back to read this, I'm thinking "jesus - you sound like a total ungrateful ass, crying into your 5 star hotel rooms 3,000-threadcount pillows."  I could easily discount everything I've just written above by saying any of the following:

• "But - once you're off the 24 hour flight, you're in a totally different universe - how cool is that????" ... or ... 

• "But now that you live in Asia, you can go and sightsee as much as you'd like - it's all in your backyard!" ... or ... 

• "But you don't have to cook for yourself, and how cool is that???  Someone making all these exotic dishes for you and then cleaning up after you?  Yes please!" ... or ...

• "So what if you're working your a*s off - sometimes it's cool to just be in a different place!" ... or ...

• "Quit your bitching - you're being PAID to travel for a living.  That's badass."

Alright - I'm lucky.  I admit it.  I've just "blogged" myself out of the whole point of this post.

How about this - the traveling part itself is anything but glamorous, but it's pretty freaking cool to be in an entirely different country and fill up your passport with exotic stamps on a regular basis.  Sometimes (and I stress sometimes intentionally as I can count these times on - well, 2 fingers) an STTA can totally suck and be ridiculously frustrating, but there's always little hints of amazingness that make it all worthwhile.  Honestly, before I was posted in Vietnam, I would look for STTA's just to break up the monotony of office work - because STTA's really do make such a difference to both you and the project/country/team/individual that you're supporting.

So keeping this all in mind ...

Please go and book your tickets immediately, suffer through the 24 hour flight in coach sitting behind a dude that doesn't believe in deodorant (true story), deal with the jet lag and potential traveler's diarrhea you may get as a result of all the new things you're trying ... and come and explore all that Vietnam has to offer with me!  Pretend I'm your STTA.  Sure - there's parts that aren't glamorous - but international travel IS life changing ... any takers????

Single Rider

Ever go to an amusement park as part of a group of 3 or 5?  Where someone ultimately has to be the 'single rider' on each of the rides?

I have.  

Sean Maroney knew I was uncomfortable being the single rider and would frequently call out "single rider!" as we were waiting for a roller coaster/log flume/insert amusement park ride here.

What a nice friend he was.

I digress ... 

Traveling alone is a lot like being the single rider.  Empowering - "hey - I can do this on my own!!  I don't need anyone to get through this meal/activity/entire trip!"  And also a little bit sad - "Wow - I hope no one realizes that my Kindle's been my date for the past 5 meals."

Having traveled frequently for work, I've become used to being the 'single rider.'  The plus side?  You can meet AWESOME like-minded people who are also traveling alone and looking to make friends.  It really does give you a sense of accomplishment - I feel quite strongly that being able to be alone with one's thoughts for an extended period of time is KEY in really understanding who you are/how you tick/why you do the things you do.  

My self-awareness is borderline obnoxious.

So while I'd MUCH prefer to travel with family, friends, or work colleagues, I'm not going to miss out on amazing experiences because no one is available to join me (you know, cause that whole "we're not in the same country thing" applies). :)

Case in point ... my current mini-vacation to Non Nuoc Beach (aka China Beach, aka R&R destination for US soldiers during the Vietnam War).  I'd say this is a great example of a trip I'm sooooo glad to have taken, but ... would be better if family/friends were with me.  

I arrived yesterday morning at 9 a.m., and was on the beach by 9:30.  The beach itself is SPECTACULAR - white sandy beaches, chaise lounges set up underneath thatched umbrellas, blue-green ocean - it might just become the Vietnamese equivalent of Topsail for me.

The resort itself ... well - it leaves a little to be desired.  It's 100% clean and safe - the two most important parts - but ... let's just say - I leave my flip flops on when walking on the kinda nasty carpeting in my room.  The shower head points UP and water floods the bathroom with each shower - so that's interesting.  OH - and the toilet is in the same stall with the shower - see below.

That's right - that's the toilet INSIDE the shower.  Huh.

The resort!  Sandy Beach Non Nuoc Resort.  A bargain at $75/night.

World's largest kind size bed.  I woke up laying diagonally this morning.

BUT - the air conditioner works - the staff are extremely friendly - I'm steps away from the beach - there's NO motorbike traffic to block out the sound of the ocean waves ... really - what in the world am I complaining about?

So for all of the awkwardness that being a "single rider" can sometimes bring (and I stress, sometimes) - I wouldn't miss this experience for the world.

And who knows - maybe there are other "single riders" to be met :)

Panoramic view of Non Nuoc Beach

Blue skies!!  Ocean!!  Sun!!  YAY!!

Oh Cabana Boy .... 

And of course - a live Dragon dance in the lobby of my hotel
this morning to celebrate the New Year.

Turns out ...

• Roosters don't only roost in the morning.  They roost all day.  And multiple roosters roosting at the same time is VERY loud.

• Bats (that's right - bats) enjoy spending their early evenings along the lake, tormenting would-be walkers/exercisers.

• Size 5 is the average shoe size in Vietnam.  Riiiiigggggghhhhhhhttttttttt.

• Geckos are good to have in one's home - they keep other creepy crawlies at bay.  Oh - and they're a dime a dozen in Hanoi.

• Mosquitoes look different in Vietnam than they do in the U.S., and they pack one helluva punch.  

• HBO Asia is about 6 months behind HBO in the U.S.  

• The Vietnamese word for beer is "bia".

• Vietnamese kids go to school on Saturday mornings.  Starting at 7:30 a.m.  And they sing.  And ring bells.  And my bedroom backs up to a school.  

Zen and the art of ... motorbikes?

Less horsepower than a motorcycle ... a little more hardcore than the rubberband and gear system that is a scooter ... somewhere in the middle lies the motorbike - the preferred method of transportation in Hanoi.

Since my first trip to Hanoi, I've developed a healthy respect (fear?) for the motorbike.  I heard a statistic that there are 8 million people in Hanoi and 7 million motorbikes - and I believe it wholeheartedly.  It's chaos at rush hour - but there's an order to the chaos ... like - everyone realizes it's going to be a crappy commute with a gajillion motorbikes on the road at the same time - and they just power through.

Here are some examples:

Homeboy has a TREE on his bike.  A tree.  

Kids get in on the action too!!
BTW - does anyone else notice that the little girl's wearing a plastic bag
over her face?  I'm all for keeping the bugs out, but don't people fear suffocation???
Oh - and dig the SARS mask on the mom.  Commonplace in these parts.

Having been here for 5 weeks, I realized my two options for transport are walking (great exercise, but not feasible to walk to work every day, particularly in the heat of the summer) and taxiing (slower than motorbikes, and you're at the whim of the driver - who doesn't always know where you're going).  While both are viable options, being able to quickly get where I need to go without having to hail and pay for a taxi (oh, that's the other thing - can get costly) is key.

And so enters the motorbike.

David and his wife, Julienne, recommended VIPbikes.org, the rental group they go through for their bikes.  I made an appointment for Saturday morning ... took a taxi by 9 a.m. ... signed on the dotted line - and voila!  I had a motorbike ... 

My new ride!

I like the blue racing stripes -- adds a little something extra, dontcha think??

... that I didn't know how to drive.

Thank GOD for the guys at VIPbikes.org ... one of the technicians drove my bike back to my house (with me on the back - first time I've ever even been on a motorbike), and spent 2 hours with me, teaching me how to use the bike - accelerate, brake, take turns, put the kickstand down (more complicated than it sounds!), etc.  He was a WONDERFUL teacher, and at the end of the lesson, I was cruising down Quang Ba on my own with the wind in my hair and bugs flying into my teeth.

Let's just say ... I have a long way to go.  The highest speed I've clocked so far is about 37 kilometers per hour (about 23 mph), and that was fast enough for me.  I go extremely slowly in congested areas, and am more likely to stop completely and let a car pass than try to move forward when they're barreling down the road.  I'm limiting myself to the lake road in my neighborhood - relatively little traffic - but am hoping to branch out a little bit each day until I have the full swing of things.

Happy motoring!!

Dig the helmet :)
Clearly, I'm jazzed!

Month 1 in Review

Hard to believe it's already been a month ... sometimes it feels like I've been here much longer, other times that I've only just arrived.  In the past month, I've been sick and struggled with jetlag, moved into an apartment, figured out more about Hanoi, and traveled to Bangkok for four days ... among other things.  

Things I've learned thus far (in no particular order):

1. I may as well be speaking Martian.  While English is compulsory in Vietnamese schools, the practice of it outside of the classroom is not.  Trying to direct a cab driver to my house and saying "go straight ... now, left - no no no - LEFT!"is a daily reminder of just how different English is from Vietnamese.  Folks in our office speak fabulous English - no problem speaking with them.  It's the day to day stuff - like ... communicating with the cleaning lady who brings you a bill for 473,000 dong (about $20 USD, and yes, the Vietnamese currency is called dong) and you have no idea why ... or ... trying to ask the salesman if the clock you bought needs batteries or if they're included in the total ... or ... trying to order your hamburger "well done."  You know - the normal "living" type of stuff.  So - I'm signing up to learn Vietnamese.  I figured it'd be a good thing to do - you know, become one with the culture and what not - but now I'm realizing it's a necessity - even if only to be able to direct a cab to my house which, turns out, isn't that easy to find.

2. Vietnamese food is delicious - or grotesque.  And you really don't know until you take that first bite.  You find your standard, go-to foods (i.e. Pho or Bun Cha) but there are absolutely situations where you're not quite sure what you're eating, and you have to go with it for fear of offending the company you're with.  

3. I must learn how to ride a motorbike.  I realize this isn't the first time this subject has graced my blog, but - it's official - I must learn how to ride a motorbike.  The freedom it will allow outweighs any fear I have of crashing and getting run over by the 400,000 OTHER motorbikes coming right behind me.  Oh, and the fact that Western helmets don't exist over here, so you're basically wearing a hard top beanie.  Nevertheless, learning how to ride a motorbike is my #1 priority in the month of February.

4. Chili sauce is a gift from God.  That is all.  

5. Hanoi weather is miserable.  It's technically "winter" here, so temps hover around 50-65 degrees - meaning all the locals are bundled into their parkas and hunkering down around open flames on the side of the street (not kidding).  The temperature isn't the unmanageable part - it's the gray.  In the 30 days that I have been here, I haven't seen blue sky once save for the 4 days I was in Bangkok.  It's always this foggy/gray/hazy/smoggy? thickness - and when it starts to mist - fugghedaboutit.  For example, it's "sunny" right now meaning, I can see a bright orb in the sky and I have a shadow - but ... I can't actually see any sky through the cloud cover.  Starting to think I should ask for those lamps that provide the fake sunlight for people with that sunshine disorder.  Worst part?  Summer is just around the corner.  Like sitting directly on the sun with 400% humidity, but still no blue skies.  Awesome.

6. I love my job.  It's true - I absolutely do love my job.  BUT - I am a bit worried about my own time management skills.  By the time I get home in the evening, the U.S. is just about coming online ... meaning I have about an hour and a half before I'm deluged by emails.  And to do list items.  And Skype chats.  And conference calls.  This is not unique to my situation, nor is it something that I didn't expect - just something I need to learn how to better manage. 

7. The metric system and Celsius can kiss my ass.  The standard measurement units in the US (inches, feet, pounds, miles, FAHRENHEIT) mean squat over here.  At the butcher shop today, I asked for a pound of ground beef - and she look at me, again, like I was speaking Martian.  Oh that's right - cause it's KILOGRAMS here.  Sh*t.  This is going to be tough.  

8. I know a little bit about a lot of things.  Great for trivia, but - who wants to talk to someone that isn't passionate and/or at least knowledgable about something beyond just surface information (or Gone With the Wind)?  I'm excited to learn a LOT about a few things while I'm here.  Namely, Vietnam - probably a good idea to know a little bit more about the people I'm living amongst, right??

9. Homesickness is an issue.  Not a pervading issue - not an all day thing - not unmanageable ... but it's there.  I miss my family.  I miss my friends.  I miss my dog.  Turns out I haven't met the love of my life or my new Vietnam bestie in the 4 weeks that I've arrived ... YET (and I stress yet) ... so it can get a bit lonely.  BUT - it's only been 4 weeks - and I've got 48 more to change that.  And yes, I'm checking into social clubs and options every single day - suggestions, while they're always welcome, probably WON'T yield options I haven't already thought of and/or explored.  It takes time, and I'm learning to give myself a break.

10.  Turns out I am self-reliant.  I mean, I lived alone at home and all that, but - this is a whole 'nother ball of wax.  And I'm doing just fine ... sure, moments of homesickness and some doubt, but ... all in all, I'd say things are going pretty swimmingly 1 month in.

And the best part?  I can't wait to see what happens next.

Some pics!

Panoramic view of my neighborhood, standing on my balcony.
Oh right - and this is a "sunny" day.

Huh.

Advertisement for a barber shop.
Because Cary Grant is the epitome of cool hairstyles in the 2000's.

Desperately needed rum and diet coke on a Friday night.
(BTW, that bottle of Captain cost 50 cents)

Took the Director of Global Health (VIP boss) sightseeing on Saturday -
pic from the Temple of Literature

Reminded me of the flat iron building (or whatever it's called) in NYC.
How do you decorate THAT space?  I love the WD-40 sign in front :)

My night with Robert Burns ... and whisky.

And what a night it was!

The event was held at the Sheraton here in Tay Ho (my neighborhood), and was a formal affair.  Most folks were in tuxes and long ball gowns - I was so happy I had the foresight to pack one cocktail dress!  Kilts were the fashion of the evening for most men - and they wore them well.

The haggis was piped in - and was actually ABSOLUTELY delicious.  The dinner was good - steak and veggies - and after dinner was traditional Scottish dancing.

And of course - the whisky.  Wow.

All in all, a fabulous evening ... good times with David and Julienne, met some nice people that have the potential to become real friends, and I felt pretty (always important!) ... I definitely enjoyed my first big Saturday night out in Hanoi!!

Enjoy the pics and videos!!

Yup - that's the haggis being piped in!

Scottish dancing!

David and Julienne pre-event

Haggis!!  And it was DELICIOUS!

Whisky.  Ouch.

Me and the founding member of the International Whisky Club